Surfing Waves

The last video you posted links to a YT account with no videos. Is there a correct link where I can subscribe to? I've always wanted to learn more about and surf in Taiwan.

BTW - one small thing I feel like can benefit you and is easy to "practice": Keep your left hand on/outside your left rail, Keep your right hand on/outside your right rail.

This is his youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/user/amadizxxx

But he mostly post it on his FB/IG.

BaNZ wrote:I'm regular foot so I always try and pick the waves that break right.

If you want to get better at surfing front side ( and especially at Front side Cutbacks ), then you should try to surf Left breaking waves exclusively for two weeks straight. Then when you go back to surfing Rights, your turn backs and staying in the pocket will be much easier.

That looks like Pipes in Encinitas. Ive surfed san diego for 53yrs. still on a shortboard at 67yrs old...I used to surf pro contests long time ago.
There used to be a time longboards only ridden when it was 2' in the summer...back then the only people riding a 9-0 in winter were the guys that grew up surfing a 9-0 in the 60s.
They were respected in the line up.

Back then all you saw in the winter was shortboards in the line up ...the playing field was level everyone was in roughly the same zone for taking off on waves.
These days novice surfers are sitting in the line up on wave storms and longboards sitting a bit further out and have just enough skill to catch waves earlier than shortboards however they lack any degree of skill riding waves and most times put themselves and those around them in jeopardy of hitting someone.... Happens ALL the time.

Back to your question... the reason longboards disappear when surf gets over 5' is because 99% of people on longboards are novices these days. Riding a 9-0 in 5' + requires skills they dont have and likely will never have.

Personally I don't have any friends that ride a longboard.... they all ride a short board whether its 2'or XXL ... me included.

Yup my local break is pipes. After a few closeout and injuries from hitting the reef, I no longer go out on days when it's over 6 feet. I remember in my first 3 years of learning I tried to transition to a smaller board. These days I'm happy to just catch waves on a longboard. As now I just onewheel and can ride my waves on land. However the injuries are far worse when you wipeout on land.

don‘t worry BaNZ it‘s just av phase you‘re going through. Not a bike on a stand like Billy

The first big wave surfers used longboards. I think you can get a big wave longboard made for yourself however it's fine to not ride big waves. Important to know your limits if you want to stay healthy.